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Bigger than your Head
April 13th, 2011

Bigger Than Your Head

The wine I enjoyed most was the Stickybeak Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Sonoma County, an all-stainless steel blend of 72 percent semillon and 28 percent sauvignon blanc that’s clean and fresh and intensely floral. Notes of apple and grapefruit, spicy pear and a bit of fig waft from the glass in a welter of lime peel, jasmine and honeysuckle; yes, it’s as irresistible as it sounds. Hints of new-mown grass and dried thyme and tarragon overlay flavors of lemon curd and roasted lemon, a further dollop of leafy fig, all swathed in a jazzed texture of crystalline acidity and a dry, chalky, limestone-washed finish. Super attractive and exhilarating. 13.5 percent alcohol. Drink through the summer of 2012. Very Good+. About $17.

The other Stickybeak wine I liked was the Stickybeak Pinot Noir 2009, Sonoma Coast, which is fermented in stainless steel and open vats and then aged in French oak, 20 percent new barrels. Here’s another fresh, bright wine — sporting a radiant medium ruby color — a pinot bursting with requisite tones of red currants and plums with hints of rhubarb and cola, cloves and potpourri, a warm and spicy wine with touches of wheatmeal, briers and brambles in its depths, which a few minutes in the glass devolve to clean, earthy minerality. If the wine has a flaw it’s that the finish turns not just dry but austere; perhaps it requires another year to find better balance. 14.3 percent alcohol. Very Good+. About $20.

Fredric Koeppel
Bigger Than Your Head Blog
April 13, 2011

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